Friday, 29 April 2016

A Handpicked Lapped Zipper

A handpicked lapped zip, with added button loop closure. Now as complicated as that sounds, it really is probably easier to do than say!
This is the closure used on most wedding dresses, if they don’t have a corset back. It gives an inconspicuous finish, whilst also making a decorative feature of the seam.
I had always intended to do a lapped zip for my dress, but it got steadily more complicated as I decided to add covered buttons and loops. The back neckline already brings the attention to the centre back seam, so I thought why not really make it a feature!
I have little experience with lapped zips, but after doing this one they will definitely be my go to option. Invisible zips are usually called for in most patterns, but I find them fiddly and they can be a right pain to do up. Doing a handpicked lapped zip is not much different except the last step is completed by hand with a prick stitch. Now I’m not going to explain a lapped zip, as there are plenty of tutorials out there…. So here are the ones I found most useful.
As you can see..(or hopefully not see!) using a prick stitch means the line of stitching that creates the lap is very almost invisible, particularly in a textured fabric like silk dupion.
When it came to adding buttons and loops… no amount of googling would yield much in the way of useful information, so here are a few of the most useful bits I gleaned through books, the web and a seamstress friend.
  • The loops will go on the right side of the zip, when looking at it. This felt the wrong way to me, but you want the lapped part of the zipper to be kept flat, so putting the loops on the other side and buttons on the lap pulls it over and flush against the body.
  • Use elastic loops. I had looked at silk loops, but without stretch they would be more difficult to do up, and wouldn’t pull the lapped part of the zipper over as the elastic ones do.
  • The loop tape has to be added before sewing in the zip. Prepare the seams, sew in or iron on your interfacing and then press the seam allowance in on each side. Place the loop tape on the underside of the right hand side of the seam with the loops poking out behind the fold. Tack it in, then pin and sew in the zip. So the loop tape is sandwiched between the main fabric and the zip. It can be quite an effort to sew over that many layers though.
  • The lining is not involved in the zip process at all, until the end when I slip stitched it down to the back of the zip, trimming down the lapped side first.
I bought my loop tape from an eBay seller for just a couple of quid. The buttons I splashed out on and ordered from Mine are 11mm handwoven dupion covered, almost an exact match to my main fabric, but they also cover buttons in your specific fabric if you send them some.
So there you have it, hopefully I’ve been a small help if you decide to do a handpicked lapped zip with added buttons and loops, or at the very least not confused you further!
I’m going to do another post to outline the other finishing touches of my dress, such as the hem and the scallop lace edging, so stay tuned for that…
Emily Kate.

Saturday, 23 April 2016

A Dip-Dye Lilou for a 'Do

When it came to finding an outfit for my hen do, (shower/bachelorette for all you U.S. readers!) I'd already had an idea of what I might make for a while. I've been to a couple where the bride-to-be often wears white and what with my recent obsession for a dip-dye job, I thought a white dress with a graduated dip-dye bottom would do nicely.
I've already made Tilly's Lilou dress from Love at First Stitch twice before, my last version becoming one of my favourite dresses. Given that I had slightly more important dresses to be making, using a pattern I'd already made before seemed like a good call. I actually made the dress in just a day, spurred on by the fact my mum commented 'You can't possibly make a dress in time for Friday!' (when it was only Wednesday) If you ever want me to do something, just tell me it can't be done in time. I love working under pressure.
The fabric I used is a white cotton sateen with a slight stretch, with a cotton lawn lining for the bodice. The sateen was a good choice giving the pleats a good drape, but also solid enough to not need an underlining or lining, even in white.
I made the same adjustments I made previously, shortening the straps but this time remembering to also trim down the armscye, as my last one is a little snug there. My Love at First Stitch book had actually been put in storage in a loft somewhere, possibly even in Wales, so I had to rely on my (terrible) memory. There was a small hairy moment when I sewed up the side seams before attaching
the lining, but then it all came back to me and I managed pretty well. The pleats I did by checking against my original Lilou, but looking at the pattern I'm not actually convinced I did them right the first time! They look just fine though, and fit within the waistline.
When it came to the dyeing, after the success of my maxi skirt, I had expected it to be dead easy. If only! As the sateen was thicker, the dye didn't seem to spread around the fabric as it had with a thin cotton and I neglected to make sure it got in all the folds of the fabric, as you can see from the picture. I also jumped the gun a little, putting the dress into the bowl before the dye had fully dissolved. This resulted in some tiny purple dots of dye in places which although I thought had ruined the dress at first, actually look almost intentional now.
I managed to get dye on the top half of the dress in the process while washing it out too, meaning it was now navy blue >>>to baby blue. I was pretty darn close to giving up when I saw some bleach out of the corner of my eye and thought 'What's the worst it can do?'. I used a separate bowl and dipped the "white" section of the dress into watered down bleach, and within seconds it was back to a brilliant white. Crisis averted.
So I'm afraid the photos really don't do this dress justice...the light was a bit bright. The colour at the bottom is much more graduated than it appears!
Emily Kate.

Friday, 15 April 2016

Wedding Dress Progress...Nearly There!

Since the wedding is really creeping up on us now…I’ve had to really pull my finger out and get on with my dress. And actually… it’s finished! Well the dress is, and the petticoat is very nearly. What I’m going to share with you today though is actually the stage it was at a few weeks ago, before the big move.
After spending a few weeks just cutting out fabric, the actual sewing was all done in a few short weeks. I used the tissue paper method to cut out the habitai silk lining, laying one layer of paper on my wooden floor, then the fabric, then another on top. I avoided cutting pieces on the fold where possible, but for the circle skirt my floor just wouldn’t have coped with the size of it had I traced the whole front piece out. So I added yet another layer of paper between the fold of the fabric so it didn’t slip. When it came to the dupioni silk, as it’s a much more stable, medium weight fabric I found I could just cut it easily without needing anything to stabilize it. I did buy myself a brand new pair of Fiskars shears at the start of the process as my cheap John Lewis pair are seriously blunt nowadays. I also used silk pins and tried to stay within seam allowances.
When it came to the tulle for the skirt, I didn’t use tissue paper within the seams as I demonstrated here for the polka dot bodice, mainly as it would have taken forever, and there was less need to be so precise on a loose skirt. I decided to do a double layer tulle skirt, so the skirt section has 4 layers in total, not including the petticoat!
When it came to the zip, I was unsure of what to do about the tulle layers. I figured I didn’t want to sew it together with the dupioni silk and have it stick out oddly below the zipper, but sewing the whole seam together would mean the tulle would be less floaty and free at the back. Without the help of a seamstress friend I’m not sure what I would have done, as no amount of googling helped. She recommended just sewing the tulle (each layer separate) below the zipper, and leaving it open above. I left it free at the seam allowance of the waist seam, trimmed the seam allowance down along the zipper and then hand stitched the top edge of the skirt into the waist seam of the main fabric after I had finished the zip. I’m really not sure that’s how the professionals exactly finish it off, but as tulle doesn’t fray it works just fine and allows you to keep the floaty effect of the tulle overlay.
For the zip, I did a handpicked, lapped zip with loop tape added to one side. You have no idea how proud of myself I am for that..and it looks pretty good! I find zips a pain to do on a machine anyway when you have layers of heavy fabric, so doing it by hand was actually much easier.
As this is getting a bit long...I’ve decided to do a separate post on the zip saga in a little more detail, as I found several articles a great help. I was surprised though at the lack of information online on putting in loops and buttons.
So there we have it… progress really has been made. Honest.
This will be the last photo I share of the whole dress until the big day though, as I want to share it with all the finishing touches!
Emily Kate.