Tuesday, 13 October 2015

Named Ailakki Jumpsuit

I think I first discovered Named back in early spring thanks to House of Pinheiro, a big fan of their patterns. The Ailakki jumpsuit jumped out at me straightaway (pun not intended...!) as it was such a unique, modern style. I put off buying it for a while because it was listed as advanced, and I'm still wary of assuming I'm an advanced sewer just yet...!
Anyway when the summer rolled around and I had more time on my hands, I added it to my huge list of sewing plans for my holiday, which I did actually get through in the end!
I thought it would be a great holiday item, but didn't really think through the fact the fabric suggested is medium weight cotton or linen, and its quite a close fitting garment. Fast forward a few weeks and in 38 degree heat in Vienna it didn't seem quite such a good idea! The temperature dropped right down in our last few days though so it did get an outing when we took a random train trip to the city of Sopron, in Hungary.
The fabric I went for is a bluish grey linen something from The Man Outside Sainsbury's, with some specks of blue and black thread in it. I bought it on the day I saw Karen from Did You Make That? in Walthamstow Market. I was totally star-struck!
So to the pattern.... I did a muslin for once to check the fit of the bodice, pretty important with such a different shape. The fit was a bit loose, so I took some of the length out of the straps. It was gaping around the bust so I took a bit of fabric out of the bust, converting the excess into the darts. The hole created at the waist was also too big and in danger of revealing my bra, so I widened the bodice on each side to make the gap narrower. The trousers part fit very well, but I like mine quite skinny, so I tapered the shape more at the lower leg.
The instructions were really very straightforward, and I think this pattern is really more of an intermediate one. The only issues I had was making sure I had the bodice placed right when I was sewing the side seams and straps, I got in a right pickle a couple of times.
And the verdict?
I love the style, and I think its a great fit... when I'm standing up. When I sit down, the bodice can feel a bit tight around the upper chest, and the gap at the waist can gape and show my bra. So it needs a fair bit of rearranging. I could wear a best top underneath, but I think that might ruin the point of the garment a bit.
 I would certainly use the pattern again though, and recommend it to others. I'm not sure how many jumpsuits one needs in a closet, but I think the pattern trousers would be a good block to use for a more standard bodice one too, and I've even seen some awesome dress versions online.

Emily Kate.

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