Llaydbird's tutorial for a lapped zip:
A slightly different technique for a lapped zip:
A how-to for a handpicked zip http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/04/handpick-lapped-zipper/
Sewaholics's handpicked version where the lining is attached to the opening of the zip as well. http://sewaholic.net/a-hand-picked-zipper-in-the-cambie-dress/
- The loops will go on the right side of the zip, when looking at it. This felt the wrong way to me, but you want the lapped part of the zipper to be kept flat, so putting the loops on the other side and buttons on the lap pulls it over and flush against the body.
- Use elastic loops. I had looked at silk loops, but without stretch they would be more difficult to do up, and wouldn’t pull the lapped part of the zipper over as the elastic ones do.
- The loop tape has to be added before sewing in the zip. Prepare the seams, sew in or iron on your interfacing and then press the seam allowance in on each side. Place the loop tape on the underside of the right hand side of the seam with the loops poking out behind the fold. Tack it in, then pin and sew in the zip. So the loop tape is sandwiched between the main fabric and the zip. It can be quite an effort to sew over that many layers though.
- The lining is not involved in the zip process at all, until the end when I slip stitched it down to the back of the zip, trimming down the lapped side first.